What all is involved in doing a lift?

[ScoutDummy]

I'll admit up front that I'm a total newbie so please, bear with me. :-) I'd like to put a 4 inch lift on a '79 Terra... A suspension lift, I think :-) A set of springs, U-bolts, shocks, etc... Told you I was a complete newbie. :-) I was curious to hear what kits you recommend (Rough Country for example, others?). What other things would have to be modified on the Terra for a 4" suspension lift (steering components? brake lines?, driveline parts?). What are your thoughts on suspension lifts versus body lifts? Any info. would be much appreciated.

[Naked Bandit]

In my opinion, I prefer the spring lift because of the floating body look you get with a body lift. Also, I have read in other forums, seeing how I have not installed my lift yet, that a spring lift helps with the handling. Hope this helps.

[1955-IH]

Suspension is the way to go, I've installed many lifts and even one on my buddies scout. It was a 4" and it was the easiest lift I've ever installed. Stay away from the body lifts, too much involved to make them look good. If I remember right there was no relocating of lines involved in the scout 4" lift. If you have ever used a wrench and get the instructions with the lift, you can easily install your lift yourself.

[scoutguy66]

It just so happens I have a 79 terra. I did a spring over axle lift and it was the best thing I ever did. The only bad thing is I have some front driveling bind. Now I have the front housing out and am doing a cut and turn on it for caster and driveline angle correction. I ran for a few years with just a spring over and welded spiders though and was unstopable.

[bobgengeskahn]

Hi all,
I was just surfing the web for information on this and found this forum very helpful so far.
I have an 80 Terra that im just about done getting back into working condition and I'm also looking at putting on a 4" and hopefully 33's on it and I was just wondering how this lift went?
I've pretty much decided on a suspension lift because in the process I put in a 33 gal. tank and it hangs really low on the stock springs.
So any kind of an update on this project would be awesome. thanks!

[rwc]

What all is involved in just doing a soa lift and how much lift would you get on a 79 scout?

[Allan E.]

What all is involved in just doing a soa lift and how much lift would you get on a 79 scout?

REAR SOA:

(keep in mind I'm leaving out a lot of details)

Grind off the old spring perches.
Weld on new spring perches.
Get new U-bolts.
Bolt it up.

Net gain: Width of spring pack plus width of axle, about 6 inches.

FRONT SOA:

(leaving out more details, and it's a lot more work)

Same amount of lift.

I'm leaving the details out simply because if you're not familiar with the process, you need to talk to somebody who sells the scout kit, such as IHOnly in California. It's simple in theory, but it is a lot of work, and it is not cheap. Having the parts is not enough. It requires some skill and knowledge so that the rig will handle when you are done. This normally includes cutting and turning the front axle to correct the steering/suspension geometry.

A spring lift is much less expensive, much less work, and an excellent first step when you're learning what causes what. Still costs major dollars, but not as difficult to do.

Edit: Triangle makes a good 4 inch lift kit. SSS sells them.

[seanmjones]

Let me see if I have it straight:

-A SOA and a body lift are the same thing, and this is what Allan E described earlier in the thread. May cause the "floating body" look. May get some front driveline bind.

-A suspension lift and a spring lift are the same thing. You may get better handling with this method.


Does anyone have before and after pictures of a scout with each type of lift?

Sean

[Allan E.]

Let me see if I have it straight:

-A SOA and a body lift are the same thing, and this is what Allan E described earlier in the thread. May cause the "floating body" look. May get some front driveline bind.

-A suspension lift and a spring lift are the same thing. You may get better handling with this method.


Does anyone have before and after pictures of a scout with each type of lift?

Sean

Lift Springs are springs with more arch, raises the height of the frame vs axles.
SOA=Spring Over Axle. Moves the axles below the springs. Stock location is above (inside) the springs.
Body lift = raise the body off of the frame by installing thicker mounts.

Please go back and re-read with that information in mind. It will probably make more sense. Sorry for being unclear.

[bobgengeskahn]

so an SOA is another form of a spring lift, correct? That is what I have basically gathered from reading a lot.
also, to anyone that has done a 4+" spring lift, did you have any problems with the drive shaft? I know on the Scout ii you have to lengthen the break lines to reach, but what else do you have to do. I'm lookin at doin a 4" myself and don't really want to deal with a new drive shaft on my own (i.e. might have a shop do it)

[Allan E.]

so an SOA is another form of a spring lift, correct? That is what I have basically gathered from reading a lot.
also, to anyone that has done a 4+" spring lift, did you have any problems with the drive shaft? I know on the Scout ii you have to lengthen the break lines to reach, but what else do you have to do. I'm lookin at doin a 4" myself and don't really want to deal with a new drive shaft on my own (i.e. might have a shop do it)

SOA means put the axle UNDER the springs. Stock location is ABOVE the springs. It means new spring perches. You can use the same springs and shackles.

Of course a shop should do the new driveline. The rear driveshaft has to be:

1. Long enough for the slip yoke not to come apart when you are at full articulation. When your rig has more ability to stretch and twist, the slip yoke needs to be able to travel farther.
2. Long enough not to collapse completely when you are at full compression.
3. Balanced in its geometry so that the front u-joint angle is equal to the rear u-joint angle. This reduces vibration.
4. Balanced on the lathe so that it does not vibrate. Ever have a bad u-joint or a tire that was out of balance? Same thing happens.

The front driveshaft is less critical, but still, you need it the right length. A CV jont at one end is often used, because vibration is less of a concern, but angle makes a big difference. Go past a certain point and the u-joint binds up. A CV joint at one end can alleviate this, essentially by putting what amounts to a third u-joint in the system. Since you only use the front in 4wd, it's not as likely to be a problem driving down the road.

[scoutguy66]

Sorry I haven't been here for a while, I will try to post some pics of mine when I get a chance. There is a bit more work that goes into a SOA (spring over axle) than other types of lifts but the idea is to get the most clearance under the axle housing(among other things). also for me it was the cheap way because I didn't have to buy anything but u-bolts. I reused the perches I cut off and the rest was fabricated.

Some of the details that allan left out:
steering: You have to Z-link your drag link or do something different with your steering setup. I do NOT want to get into the Z-link debate here but that's what I did and if you want to know about it, it's worth starting another thread.
front perch: You have to cut/grind some of the cast housing on the pass. side front to weld something in for a perch and find square u-bolts to bolt the spring up.
Front driveline: You may have to lengthen the front driveline, I did. I never run in 4hi so I rebuilt it with a seamed piece of pipe and never balanced it. It works fine but it never spins at really high rpms.

[mtnduc]

I was told by SSS you can do a 4" lift with no adjustments to brake lines or driveline

[okkool77]

Ya you COULD in theory run a 4" shackle lift with the stock brake lines, which is exactly what the idiot who owned my rig before did. The only problem is: your a brake failure accident waiting to happen, the axles need to be supported the leaf springs NOT the brake lines. Personally I would just spend the extra $100 for the extended brakelines and have no worry's. About the driveshaft issue, I'm still running a stock driveline in the front but after I twisted and broke my rear I had a custom length built for me but the stock was working fine up to that point and could eat anything I could throw at it.