View Full Version : 77 Scout II ignition
CKSCOUT77
03-20-2009, 02:21 PM
Looking to replace ignition system and get rid of the gold box. Does anyone have any suggestions on what type of new system i should put in?
Allan E.
03-21-2009, 02:25 PM
Easiest swap: Part number HO-181. I think summit sells it for about 140 bucks. Don't know who else carries it.
Finding another distributor might be another way. All 304/345/392 distributors from light line stuff (pickups, travelalls, scouts) are interchangeable. The ones from Loadstars sometimes have governors in them that have to be disabled, but they work okay.
LoneStarScout
03-21-2009, 04:37 PM
depending on how much you want to spend, a DUI (Davis Unified Ignition)dizzy is an option. It's an all in one deal, but expensive.
the DUI is basically a GM HEI modified for our IH engines. You can get internals and modules at any local parts store. It will replace all of your exsisting ignition system, from the Gold Box to your distributor to your coil.
I'm waiting on mine to arrive. Dependability is worth a lot to me, so I don't mind spending the cash for something that will last and keep me driving my Scout more than leaning over the hood of it.
CKSCOUT77
03-22-2009, 05:52 AM
Does the HO-181 pertronix replace the gold box?
Allan E.
03-22-2009, 07:38 AM
Does the HO-181 pertronix replace the gold box?
It actually replaces the pickup and incorporates the gold box into the distributor where the points would be, if memory serves, just like the replacements for the prestolite module and points distributor.
I just carry a spare gold box and pickup, or else a spare distributor, because I am cheap, and because I have done so many engine swaps over the years that I ended up with a few trail spares for the fleet.
Naturally, I forget to transfer the trail spare stuff on the trip I need it most. So it goes.
lotero
04-14-2009, 08:52 AM
Does the HO-181 pertronix replace the gold box?
i installed a pertronix on my scout today and now it wont start, do i still need to have the gold box in the loop for it to work? if so whats the point of the pertronix?? FYI my scout is a rock buggy and runs on propane, i am very close to ripping every wire out and starting from scratch, keep in mind that i only have wiring for ignition switch, charging and electric fan, no gauges or creature comforts. can i just hook the black petronix wire to the negative side of the coil, red one to the positive and a wire from there to my ignition switch/push button for 12v??? thanks
Allan E.
04-14-2009, 09:33 AM
i installed a pertronix on my scout today and now it wont start, do i still need to have the gold box in the loop for it to work? if so whats the point of the pertronix?? FYI my scout is a rock buggy and runs on propane, i am very close to ripping every wire out and starting from scratch, keep in mind that i only have wiring for ignition switch, charging and electric fan, no gauges or creature comforts. can i just hook the black petronix wire to the negative side of the coil, red one to the positive and a wire from there to my ignition switch/push button for 12v??? thanks
If you installed a pertronix, no, you do not have to have the gold box in the loop. You do have to have the magnetic pickup gapped properly, and it has to be the one for the pertronix. The Holley pickup won't trigger it.
You need to verify your (+) source for the pertronix is on during the START cycle, though, and not just during the RUN cycle. How you describe it is correct.
lotero
04-14-2009, 05:15 PM
ok so if i run the red wire on the petronix straight to the positive side of the coil and a wire directly from there to my 12v on/off switch and the black wire on the petronix to the negative side of the coil, it should theoretically start? this is how i have it setup and it doesnt start. i did pull a plug wire and plugged it into a spark plug and it is sparking. could it be a timing issue?
also, there is a positive 12v to the positive and negative sides of the coil when i turn the toggle to on, and i can hear the petronix buzz.
Allan E.
04-15-2009, 11:20 AM
If you have the voltage from the KEY switch, you may not be getting power to the unit when you are trying to start. It's two different circuits.
In the old ponts systems, there was a terminal labeled "R" from the solenoid to the points to give you 12 volts to the coil when starting. The key switch actually turned the RUN circuit OFF at that time.
Check to see if there is power from the unit when you crank.
Use a DWELL meter or a TACH to see if you are getting pulses to the coil.
lotero
04-15-2009, 11:31 AM
ahh ok that makes sense thank you sir.
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