My whole engine shakes ahh!!???

[NorCalPrincess]

ok ok we gaped the points were driving it to school 4 like three days now theres a ticking sound when you step on the gas my bf says its cause we have an exhaust leak! sum 1 else said one of the rods is knocking! can they really fly off n come up through the engine or floor board if one blows? then our main mechanic who gaped the points says it could be the tranny. now tranny fluid is not red like I thought it should be its kinda brown but mind you its never been changed since we bought it. when we bought it the guy said it was sitting for 2 years. we've had it for like 5mons already and been getn it going. it drives great like a champ we dont drive it over 60 though cuz the gas it hogs. but ive gotten it to do 80 90 n it still ran good! everyone says its a good truck 4 200 bucks. but I ask u experts frist n he tells the mechanic and he uses it so I could really use sum expert advise and answers to my probably dumb questions! plz.

[Allan E.]

I guess it's fix a problem create another right! well I guess I have alot to learn about my IH. ok we were good going to school I never drove it over 50 mph. now it starts but the whole engine shakes and makes like a sputering sound onwe person said it was timing! the others say its the spark plugs or the spark plug wires. then someone said the motor mounts are busted it didn't shake like that before it drove good! then one morning when I tried to warm it up it kinda sounds like it's out of gas but when you push the gas it doesn't really want to go it goes but it struggles. we chnged the spark plug wires but they were old not new then I put new spark pplugs and haven't tried it since. it's not the fuel pump that works fine! I was thinking the vacume? ok well any suggestions are greatly appreciated!:confused:

First things first.

Let's assume the engine is okay inside, and something external is making it shake.

1. Timing does not go out by itself, and generally does not cause such shaking. However, not running on all cylinders can cause this. The reasons for not running on all cylinders are:

Bad points (pre-74) rubbing block, causing bad spark.
Bad cap/rotor, causing severe miss.
Spark plug wires out of sequence.
Harmonic balancer came loose, especially on a 345 with the rubber kind.
Carburator jet clogged on one side, so only half the cylinders are getting gas.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

2. You can get some sputtering due to fuel issues, such as a clogged fuel filter. The engine can seem to shake when that happens.

Engine mounts should be easy to spot. The engine can move around, especially when you give it some gas and let it off, but shaking isn't usually one of the symptoms.

[NorCalPrincess]

well when I first bought it it wouldn't start so we changed it from eletrical to points so that is new it was running fine untile one morning I started it to warm it up it was idling for a lil then it just died! now it shakes it goes but I didn't think that you should drive it like that cuz it feels like an earthquake:eek:

[78ssii]

It sounds like you didn't have your points adjusted with the correct gap and you have already burnt them out. I would suggest either going back to your electronic set up or check/ replace the points.

[NorCalPrincess]

It sounds like you didn't have your points adjusted with the correct gap and you have already burnt them out. I would suggest either going back to your electronic set up or check/ replace the points.

Well I guess the timing was never adjusted either but we were driving it to school for like three days it ran beautifully im talkin perfect it sounded so good it picked up speed fine everything when we had electronical we couldn't find the stupid control modual anywhere I bought one from aoutozone and it didn't work so we switched it to points. it has a 392 I guess thats why we didn't find one at a junk yard either cuz we tried that to!:confused: how much and how do you replace the points?:confused:

[78ssii]

If your timing was never adjusted right, and the points were off some, then I would look at the points.
To make things easier for yourself, I suggest you go to binderbooks.com and purchase yourself a service manuel for your Scout. It will be invaluable in these sort of things.

[baldscout]

Points are located under the distributor cap. Held in place with one or two screws (if replacing the condenser too (recommended!!!)).

Pull your distributor cap, leave all the wires attached! and unbolt the existing points. Put new points on, rotate the engine until they are opened (breaker bar on crank works great), gap at 0.019" and tighten down. bolt condenser in place and run wire to coil, replace distributor cap and ensure everything is tightened down. Start up and check your timing & dwell (sorry don't have those numbers off the top of my head as it differs for each engine.)

Adjust timing / dwell per shop manual as necessary.

A points & condenser kit from Napa ran me $25 a few months back for my 258. I always carry a spare set, but have never needed to use them.

HTH

[NorCalPrincess]

it has a 392 u think the extra one u have will fit or should i just by a new one someone who has a been a big help told me to check if i had a vacume leak we did that and nothing still shaking I know where the pionts are! how much are the manuals i've already put up so much money more than what i paid for it! but i like it i wanna keep it but i wanna be able to drive it because it ran so good!

[NorCalPrincess]

we bought sparkplug wires I guess the timing is correct now and still shaking actually now it kinda doesn't wanna start it turns over but doesn't start.

[baldscout]

it has a 392 u think the extra one u have will fit or should i just by a new one someone who has a been a big help told me to check if i had a vacume leak we did that and nothing still shaking I know where the pionts are! how much are the manuals i've already put up so much money more than what i paid for it! but i like it i wanna keep it but i wanna be able to drive it because it ran so good!

The points I have may fit, but yer better off running to a local part shop and getting the parts. That way yer guaranteed to have the right ones. Plus, due to yer forum name, I reckon yer in California or Texas, both a long ways from AK.

A vacuum leak could have caused it, but since you've ruled it out; then yer all set on that aspect. The list from Allan E (above) is a good one to slowly knock items off, one at a time.

It'll get solved as you continue to explain the symptoms after knocking off each one of the items listed.

Manuals are available from Binderbooks.com, I paid about 75 for mine w/ shipping.

[baldscout]

we bought sparkplug wires I guess the timing is correct now and still shaking actually now it kinda doesn't wanna start it turns over but doesn't start.

Then its sounding more like a carburetor or fuel problem than a spark problem. Verify spark and post back up. Someone will assist from there. One item at a time. You'll get it running again.