minor(gulp)electical

[grnbinder]

Hi folks. Jim Adams here, first post since the BB's been back up. First off, I hate electical problems, however I fear I have one. Seems that my rig is very hard on points so I checked the running voltage at the coil and it is battery voltage. Doesn't the voltage at the coil have to be ballasted down to insure proper point life? That said does anyone know if there should be an external resistor or a resistor wire and if a r. wire does it come off the ignition switch? Truck is a 1971 1110 4x4., 345, auto trans. Also, is it possible to use an electronic ig. distributor that takes battery voltage that could be found in a wrecking yard and be dropped in? I know you can get new elect. ig. distributors, however they're really expensive. Thanks, Jim.

[okkool77]

For starters is your beast a "Gold Box Wonder". If it isn't you should use a resitence wire and possibly an external resistor so you don't burn your points quite so fast. One company that you can use to eliminate the points is Petronix, they make a reliable elimination kit that retails for around $100-130. With these you need watch out for "High Output" coils as it will fry the ignitor, I'm in the middle of re-wiring my ignition because of this. To avoid: add an external resistor and a stock coil or one that has more resistance than the MSD High Output. Hope this helps some.

[Allan E.]

The voltage across the points to ground should be about 2-3 volts while running.
The voltage across the coil should be about 5 volts while running.
The voltage from ground to (+) coil should be about 10 volts while running.

Yes, there should be a ballast resistance.

If you decide to go with a pertronix ignitor, the primary resistance of the coil needs to be at least 1.5 ohms. The stock coil should work fine, but some aftermarket "upgrade" coils do not.

The gold box was not used until 75. The distributor in the 71 is either a Holley points or Prestolite points unit. There are aftermarket ignition modules for both.

[okkool77]

Thanks for the tip on the Gold Box, never knew it was only '75 and later.

[grnbinder]

OK, I guess maybe I'm okay. Checked the voltage to the coil running yesterday and the running voltage was 9.4. Didn't check across the coil, I'll d that today. When I checked the voltage the other day it was just with the key on, not running. Given that the running voltage is what it is should there still be a ballast resitor somewhere? Thanks, Jim

[Allan E.]

OK, I guess maybe I'm okay. Checked the voltage to the coil running yesterday and the running voltage was 9.4. Didn't check across the coil, I'll d that today. When I checked the voltage the other day it was just with the key on, not running. Given that the running voltage is what it is should there still be a ballast resitor somewhere? Thanks, Jim

The stock ballast "resistor" is a piece of wire that has a nominal value of about 1.8 ohms. It's resistance wire, so unless you know it's there, it just looks like a piece of wire from the bulkhead connector to the coil. The wire from the solenoid to the coil is regular wire.

[Combine]

The stock ballast "resistor" is a piece of wire that has a nominal value of about 1.8 ohms. It's resistance wire, so unless you know it's there, it just looks like a piece of wire from the bulkhead connector to the coil. The wire from the solenoid to the coil is regular wire.

Alan,

Many thanks for that info. I've been tearing my hair out trying to figure out what an external resistor is. On my '74 SII there's a wire shrouded in white cloth that runs to the coil. This is the so called "reistor", correct? I bought a new coil today that, according to AutoZones finest, was the correct oe coil. However my old coil had printed on it, "does not require external resistance". The new one says, "requires external resistance". Well having read your post, I installed it and low and behold it appears to work perfectly. Would some of the recent issues I've had (loss of power, stuttering and backfiring) when the truck is up to temp be caused by having a resistor wire on a coil that doesn't require one? GRNBinder sorry to hijack but looks like the thread's been dormant for awhile and it was the only one I could find that definitively identified this "resistor". Alan, thanks again, and I promise, a manual is on order :D.

Best,

CMBN

[Allan E.]

Yes, that was most likely your issue. The resistance wire in the older rigs was just part of the wire loom. If you have a stock wiring harness, that's what's in there. If you replace the wire from the bulkhead to the coil, the ballast resistor needs to be added to take its place.

[Combine]

Yes, that was most likely your issue. The resistance wire in the older rigs was just part of the wire loom. If you have a stock wiring harness, that's what's in there. If you replace the wire from the bulkhead to the coil, the ballast resistor needs to be added to take its place.

I do have the stock harness so I believe all is well... For now. One last question. In the mounting bracket above the coil, there is a small metal cylinder with a short black wire going to the coil + terminal. I was told this is to prevent static in your radio reception, is this true and is it necessary?

[Allan E.]

I do have the stock harness so I believe all is well... For now. One last question. In the mounting bracket above the coil, there is a small metal cylinder with a short black wire going to the coil + terminal. I was told this is to prevent static in your radio reception, is this true and is it necessary?

yes, it's true, and it's only necessary on some radios, not all.

[Okie]

I do have the stock harness so I believe all is well... For now. One last question. In the mounting bracket above the coil, there is a small metal cylinder with a short black wire going to the coil + terminal. I was told this is to prevent static in your radio reception, is this true and is it necessary?
I just joined the site! Scout II owner!

I've run my 1977 Scout II, 4x4. 304, 4 speed, 60,000 original miles, on both points and factory electronic! (gold box one)
This one with factory electronic ign did not have the ignition resistor when I went to points, due to a gold box failure about 10 years back and the gold box replacement was $100! I used a chrysler type ign ballast resistor in the + wire to the coil to prevent points burn-out and a GM coil! I eventually replaced the gold box with a a Borg Warner CBE8 from O'Rielly with a lifetime warrenty for approx $75. The original box failed right after I had cleaned the engine (304) by hose down! I now have all spare parts for the electronic ignition! (the distributor sensor for mine is kinda hard to find nowdays) I looked at the the Pertronix system recently at their web-site and on e-bay! You can replace your current points system for approx $100, using your existing distributor! I would probably have used the Pertronix system if I had previously know about such as I've heard good things about such! Your also have the option of using your coil or the $40 higher output Pertronix coil matched to the kit! They claim it's a no brainer to install and have videos for such for reviewing! The Pertronix breakerless sytem is selected based on the type of International ignition system type of distributor you currently have in use, delco remy, Holley, or prestolite! (O'Reillys also sells the product, but I would thourghly review so as sell you the correct one, being electrical, it may not be returnable even if incorrect!
This vec 304 engine mostly sits and idles and is operated on short runs, low rpms in 4 low and seldom driven except during hunting season and the points system ignition would have tendency to foul plugs quite often and going back to the electronic ignition has stopped the plug fouling! I normally replaced the points on the vec about every 5,000 miles during a tune-up and they wre not severly burned, just prev maintance!

The round thingy your asked about at the + side of the coil is a condenser (capaciator) and is used to reduce feedback voltage spikes radio ignition noise on the battery feed wiring! The vec will operate ok without it, but may have CB radio, vec radio or electronic equipment ignition noise interference! Normally this condenser is not required if you are using a FM radio, but was needed when AM radio's were being used!